Melissa from the Kimberley Cruise Centre reflects back on her incredible West Papua trip with Coral Expeditions
Some years ago, I joined Coral Expeditions’ vessel, Coral Discoverer, on an incredible voyage through West Papua, Raja Ampat and the Spice Islands. As a keen diver, the days that we spent snorkelling were some of the most memorable days of my life. Fast forward a few years and my husband, Todd, has just published a book about the world’s top 50 ultimate diving locations. With Raja Ampat featured in his list, many great memories returned to me as I looked through images from my trip with Coral Expeditions. Below, I’ve highlighted my top five unforgettable trip highlights, followed by Todd’s tips on how to photograph an elusive pygmy seahorse in the nutrient-rich waters of Raja Ampat.
Highlight # 1: Wayag Lagoon
Me (Melissa) looking back at our ship anchored in Wayag Lagoon. I regretted wearing thongs (flip flops) on this hike! Image by Grace Picot.
Nestled in the heart of the Coral Triangle, the archipelago of Raja Ampat – a region that covers more than 40,000 square kilometres – certainly lives up to its tourism tag of ‘the last paradise’. Imagine towering limestone islands, crystal-clear waters, vibrant coral gardens, and an array of marine life from mantas to pint-sized pygmy seahorses (more about them below).
Wayag Lagoon, with its aquamarine water and towering limestone outcrops, has become the poster child for Raja Ampat tourism ads, despite it being near-impossible for most travellers to get to.
This was my favourite shore excursion and still a life highlight. We were the only people there and the outlook from Pindito Peak was incredible.
Admittedly, wearing thongs (flip flops) was a bad idea! I recommend packing sand shoes with a good grip for this hike. Make sure you do it – the view from the top will be a life highlight.
Highlight # 2: Cenderawasih Bay
Face-to-face with a gentle giant in Cenderawasih Bay. Images of me (Melissa Connell) by Grace Picot.
Though the name is hard to pronounce, Cenderawasih (Bird of Paradise) Bay has become well-known amongst divers for its incredible marine biodiversity. The star of the show here are the whale sharks.
During our visit, local bagan fishermen were throwing their bycatch into the water and half a dozen whale sharks continuously looped around to enjoy an easy meal.
The biggest fish in the world, whale sharks are docile, but despite this they are listed as endangered on the IUCN Red List mainly due to a demand for their meat, fins and oil. It was good to hear that the Cenderawasih Bay National Park Authority, together with Conservation International Indonesia has started a whale shark satellite tagging, thanks to information provided by the bagan fishermen.
These photos were captured by my friend, Grace, on her GoPro, so they aren’t the best in quality. But they do capture the feeling of awe that I (and the rest of our group) experienced in coming face-to-face with these big, beautiful fish.
Highlight # 3: Fort Belgica
Images of me (Melissa Connell) at Fort Belgica by Grace Picot.
For some out-of-the-water action, we headed to the scenic Fort Belgica in Banda Neira, Maluku Islands (the Moluccas). Built by the first Governor-General of the Dutch East Indies in 1611, wandering through the pentagonally-shaped Fort Belgica was a real highlight of our expedition.
This region was once the heart of the spice trade and was the world’s only source of nutmeg until the mid-19th century.
Here, we explored the fort and enjoyed watching local women perform a traditional dance before we saw the sun set over the nearby volcano. There was also some great snorkelling nearby, with reef systems made from lava and volcanic rocks.
Highlight # 4: Sunsets
Sunsets in the Spice Islands are next level wild/incredible! Image of me (Melissa Connell) by Grace Picot.
While I’m on the subject of sunsets, I think it’s worth including them in this list as a highlight in their own right. With so much of the landscape being undeveloped, jungle-clad islands and volcanoes became lovely silhouettes each day as the sun coloured the sky in hues of pink, purple and orange.
There were many times that little canoes with locals grinning from ear-to-ear would glide through the silky pink water, waving as they went past.
Every sunset offered an opportunity to reflect back on the magic of the day that was coming to an end … and then excitedly waiting for what was on offer tomorrow!
Highlight # 5: Visiting local villages
Above image by Grace Picot, below image by me (Melissa Connell).
You can find beautiful landscapes throughout the world, but what really makes travel special, I believe, is the people.
The people that we met throughout this voyage were some of the most beautiful, kind and joyous people I’ve ever encountered.
From the children that approached us on the beach, to the locals who welcomed us into their villages with songs and dances, the hospitality shown to us foreigners certainly left an indelible mark on our hearts. I will be back.
Photography Tip, “Petite portraits” by Todd Thimios
Pygmy seahorses are the smallest of seahorse species, measuring only about 1-2.7 cms in length (the size of your thumbnail). They are known for their remarkable camouflage abilities, often blending seamlessly with the vibrant corals they inhabit.
To photograph one of these mini mares, you’ll need patience, good buoyancy control and the right macro gear.
I’ve spent hundreds of hours capturing pygmy portraits and here’s what I’ve learned…
First of all, it’s important to prioritise the care of the seahorse and its gorgonian home, as both are extremely delicate and can easily be affected from factors such as being touched, air bubbles hitting them, or from light sources. The pygmy seahorse depends on the fan for survival, so if the fan dies, so also will the pygmy. I like to begin by spending time watching my subject and getting the position of my strobes correct before taking my first photo, then I try to keep flashes to a minimum (five flashes, at the most) as there’s scientific evidence that repeated flashes can have an adverse effect on these delicate creatures. Limit the use of a constant light source. I use strobes on their weakest setting with a diffuser. My preferred camera will have a crop sensor, to help with extra zoom, coupled with a 100mm macro lens and a dioptre, if you have one.
