Destination

Rowley Shoals

Far off the northern Kimberley coast, the Rowley Shoals are one of Australia’s most spectacular and remote marine destinations. This chain of three coral atolls — Clerke Reef, Mermaid Reef, and Imperieuse Reef — lies over 300 kilometres offshore, offering an unparalleled combination of pristine coral gardens, abundant marine life, and isolated sandy cays.

A Diver’s Paradise

The shoals are renowned for their vibrant and largely untouched coral reefs, which are home to a dazzling array of tropical fish, reef sharks, turtles, and rays. Snorkelling or diving here feels like entering another world: the clarity of the water allows for incredible visibility, while the sheer size of the reefs creates opportunities for drift snorkelling through coral canyons and lagoons. For underwater photographers, the kaleidoscope of colour and movement under the water provides endless inspiration.

Remote Islands and White Sand Beaches

Each atoll features small sandy cays, where expedition tenders can drop guests for secluded walks and beachcombing. Bedwell Island, nestled within Clerke Reef, is home to nesting seabirds such as Red-Tailed Tropicbirds. Bedwell offers dramatic views over the surrounding turquoise waters and is also a gorgeous spot for sunset drinks and canapés.

The Rowley Shoals with dive guide Todd Thimios

The below is an edited extract from Ultimate Dive Sites book by my husband, Todd Thimios, published in February 2025.

What a sight it must’ve been for Captain Rowley when he first spotted Imperieuse Reef while sailing these waters on the HMS Imperieuse in 1800.

Long before snorkels and SCUBA were invented (and even the glass aquarium), crystal-clear, shallow water teeming with fish would’ve been a welcome sight to hungry sailors. Back then, the Rowley Shoals were known as Pulau Pulo Dhaoh to the Indonesians who fished here for sea cucumbers, turtle shell, trochus shell and shark fin. These days, the three giant coral atolls that make up the Rowley Shoals Marine Park and Mermaid Reef Marine Park are known for their world-class snorkelling and diving. Very few people have heard of them and even fewer visit them.

Rising 400m from the ocean floor, the Shoals are Australia’s best examples of shelf atolls. Within each atoll are enormous shallow lagoons resembling giant swimming pools in the middle of the sea, crowded with colourful fish, giant clams and sea stars. The tropical tidal range of up to five metres has shaped some interesting coral landscapes and there are great opportunities for high-speed drifts, such as ‘Jimmy goes to China’, so named for its ability to whisk you away if you’re not careful. On an outgoing tide, you’ll find yourself gliding past pecking parrotfish, gorgeous gorgonian fans and green turtles hitching a ride with the current. Thanks to the huge tides, plenty of nutrients are washed in and out of the reefs every six hours, so you’ll find that the corals and fish here are healthy and oversized.

You may be asking, ‘if it’s so great, why haven’t I heard of it?’ Well, getting here is tricky, due to its remote location. About 260km west of Broome in the Indian Ocean, on the edge of the continental shelf, only a small handful of commercial operators are licensed to visit the Shoals each year, and only for a few weeks when the doldrums create glassy conditions.  The expense and effort of flying to here deters many divers, and then there’s the problem of availability, with the few scuba trips on offer usually booked out a year or so in advance.

But for the die-hard divers (and snorkellers) that do make it here, underwater utopia awaits. Just imagine the most incredible walls of hard and soft corals, and visibility of 50+m. Imagine over 200 species of coral, plus more than 600 fish species including potato cod, groupers, Maori wrasse and pelagics like mackerel, tuna and trevally. And then there’s hammerheads, humpbacks, mantas, bottlenose and spinner dolphins and even the odd orca spotted here. But perhaps the greatest thing about the Shoals are the pristine conditions.

If you like your water balmy, the water temperature ranges from 28ºC to 30ºC; there’s no need to pack a thick wetsuit for this trip. And when you’re starting to feel waterlogged, there’s a white sand cay called Bedwell Island at the northern end of Clerke Reef, which is great for sunset snacks and beachcombing, and is also a resting stop for seabirds migrating from as far away as Siberia. The Rowley Shoals are one to add to your tropical dive wish list, but don’t wait too long as it’s now starting to hit the radar of Youtube-ing sailors and larger cruise operators.

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Clerke Reef

At the southern end of the remote Rowley Shoals, Clerke Reef’s unique structure — a combination of shallow lagoons, coral pinnacles, and channels — allows guests to explore a variety of underwater landscapes, each offering its own surprises.

Dolphins often swim alongside expedition vessels, while sea turtles glide gracefully just beneath the surface. Birdlife is abundant, with nesting colonies adding movement and colour to the pristine landscape.

Mermaid Reef

Lying north of Clerke Reef, Mermaid Reef is renowned for its dramatic coral walls, vibrant marine life, and pristine isolation.

Mermaid Reef is famous for its towering coral walls and intricate reef structures. Snorkellers and divers are treated to a spectacular underwater landscape, with gardens of brain coral, staghorn coral, and colourful sea fans creating a living tapestry. The reef is home to a rich diversity of marine life including potato cod, reef sharks, turtles, and countless tropical fish.

One of the reef’s most striking features is the Northern Wall, a dramatic drop-off where the shallow reef suddenly plunges into deeper waters. Drift snorkelling along this wall allows guests to glide over coral pinnacles teeming with life, while the adjacent lagoon offers calmer waters for a more relaxed exploration.

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Bedwell Island

Nestled within Clerke Reef, Bedwell Island is a small sand cay that offers a peaceful retreat above the waterline, where visitors can step ashore to experience quiet beaches, vibrant birdlife, and panoramic views of the surrounding turquoise waters.

Bedwell Island is framed by powdery white sand beaches that gently slope into the shallow, crystal-clear waters of the surrounding reef lagoon.

Though small, the island is teeming with life. Seabirds, including terns and frigatebirds, use the island as a nesting site, creating lively displays as they swoop and circle overhead. Dolphins often patrol the waters nearby, and the surrounding reefs are home to turtles, rays, and countless tropical fish.